Madrid is a melting pot for the cuisines from all over
the peninsula. Gourmets sometimes argue whether Madrid cuisine exists or not,
but the truth is that the capital of Spain has enriched its gastronomy with the
contributions of the Andalusians, Galicians, Asturians and other immigrants who
have settled here.
A good number of dishes and recipes can be named however which can be considered
typical of Madrid. Among them, the
Cocido Madrileсo must be
mentioned; a stew combining chickpeas with vegetables (cabbage, celery, carrots,
turnips and potatoes) and chicken, beef and pork and which is turned into a huge
succulent meal.
Callos or tripe is another of the typical dishes
identified with local cuisine and may be found in some of the well-known
restaurants in Madrid. We must not neglect the humble and savory
Sopa de Ajo
(garlic soup),
Caracoles (snails),
Tortilla de patatas (potato
omelet), the famous recipe of
Besugo al horno (baked bream), so typical
in the capital in spite of its distance from the ocean, or dishes in which
bacalao
(cod) is the main ingredient.
Madrid's sweet tradition can be appreciated through its dessert; from
torrijas
(a type of French toast), typical in the springtime and liked to Holy Week, to
the
barquillos (rolled wafers),
bartolillos con crema (a type of
small pie with custard) the
buсuelos (a type of fritter filled with
custard whipped cream, etc.) in November, the
mazapan (marzipan)
and
turrуn (soft and hard nougat) at Christmas and the
rosquillas
de anнs (anise-flavored doughnuts) during the festival of San Isidro.
In Madrid, as well as in the rest of Spain, the
tapa (savory tidbits of a
variety of dishes served as appetizers) is an old gastronomic tradition. You can
find numerous establishments specialized in serving these tapas. "Ir de
tapeo" (going out for tapas) is a tradition; hundreds of bars scattered
throughout the streets of Madrid serve a tapa accompanied by a small glass of
wine or beer.
Enjoy some of the best restaurants of Madrid that Sasha
has chosen for you (by the type of cuisine):
Asador
Fronton
Tirso de Molina 7 (upstairs at back), Madrid, Spain
Phone: 91/369-1617
EUR12 to EUR24
This
popular, long-established Basque restaurant serves outstanding meat and fish. It
has a few satellites now, but the original is more old-fashioned, and still has
a jolly waitstaff - unusual in Spain. Appetizers include
anchoa fresca (fresh
grilled anchovies) and
pimientos rellenos con bacalao (peppers stuffed
with cod). The huge, delicious
chuleton (T-bone steak), seared on a
charcoal grill and lightly sprinkled with sea salt, is for two or more; order
cogollo
de lechuga (lettuce hearts) or another vegetable to accompany. The tender
cocochas
de merluza (hake morsels in green parsley sauce) are deliciously light.
Reservations essential. AE, DC, MC, V. No dinner Sun.
Botin
Cuchilleros 17, off Plaza Mayor, Madrid, Spain
Phone: 91/366-4217
Under EUR18
The
Guinness Book of Records calls this the world's oldest restaurant (1725),
and Hemingway called it the best. The latter claim may be a bit over the top,
but the restaurant
is excellent and extremely charming (and so successful
that the owners opened a "branch" in Miami, Florida). There are four
floors of tile, wood-beam dining rooms, and if you're seated upstairs you'll
pass ovens dating back centuries. Musical groups called
tunas often drop
in to meander among the hordes in traditional garb. Specialties are
cochinillo
asado (roast suckling pig) and
cordero asado (roast lamb), but you
might also try the
estofada de perdiz (stewed partridge). It is said that
Goya washed dishes here before he made it as a painter. AE, DC, MC, V.
Casa
Benigno
Benigno Soto 9, Madrid, Spain
Phone: 91/416-9357
Under EUR24
A
specialist in Mediterranean cuisine, this intimate hideaway in northeastern
Madrid is best known for its rice dishes, including
arroz a banda (rice
with seafood) and the best paella in town. King Juan Carlos is a regular.
Accompany the culinary inventions with your choice of olive oil from a truly
encyclopedic selection. Owner-creator Don Norberto takes gracious care of
international guests, suggesting unusual wines from all over the Iberian
Peninsula and guiding you congenially through the casual, understated premises.
Reservations essential. AE, DC, MC, V. Closed Aug., Holy Week, and Christmas wk.
No dinner Sun.
Casa
Ciriaco
Calle Mayor 84, Madrid, Spain
Phone: 91/559-5066
Under EUR24
One
of Madrid's most traditional restaurants, Ciriaco has hosted a long list of
Spain's illustrious, from royalty to philosophers, painters, and bullfighters.
Typical of what Madrid does best, simple home cooking in an unpretentious
environment, Casa Ciriaco will serve you a flagon of Valdepeñas or a split of a
Rioja reserva to accompany the specialty of
perdiz con favas (partridge
with broadbeans). The
judias con liebre (white beans with hare) is
another favorite. AE, MC, V. Closed Wed. and Aug.
Casa
Lastra
Olivar 3, Madrid, Spain
Phone: 91/369-0837
Under EUR24
Established
in 1926, this little Asturian restaurant-bar is popular with locals in the
charming Lavapié district. It has a rustic feel, its half-tile walls strung
with relics from the Asturian countryside along with sausages and garlic.
Specialties include
fabada (Asturian ham and white-bean stew),
fabas
con almejas (white beans with clams), and
queso de cabrales, Spain's
super-tangy blue cheese made from a mixture of milk from cows, goats, and sheep.
Desserts include baked apples. Great hunks of crisp bread and hard Asturian
cider can complement a hearty meal on a 2,200-pta. weekday set menu. AE, MC, V.
Closed Wed. and July. No dinner Sun.
Casa
Mingo
Paseo de la Florida 2, Madrid, Spain
Phone: 91/547-7918
Under EUR12
Resembling
an Asturian cider tavern, Casa Mingo is built into a stone wall beneath the
Estación del Norte, across the street from the hermitage of San Antonio de la
Florida. It's a bustling place; you share long plank tables with other diners,
and the only items on the menu are succulent roast chicken, salad, and sausages,
all to be taken with
sidra (hard cider). Small tables are set up on the
sidewalk in summer. If you don't come early (1 for lunch, 8:30 for dinner), you
may have to wait for a table. Reservations not accepted. No credit cards.
Casa
Paco
Puerta Cerrada 11, Madrid, Spain
Phone: 91/366-3166
EUR12 to EUR24
This
popular Castilian tavern wouldn't have looked out of place two or three
centuries ago. Squeeze past the old, zinc-top bar, always crowded with Madrileños
downing shots of Valdepeñas red wine, and into the tile dining rooms. People
come here to feast on thick slabs of red meat, served sizzling on plates so hot
that the meat continues to cook at your table. The beef is superb, and the
Spanish consider overcooking a sin, so be prepared for looks of dismay if you
ask for your meat well done (
bien hecho). You order by weight, so
remember that a
medio kilo is more than a pound. To start, try the
pisto
manchego (the La Mancha version of ratatouille) or the classic Castilian
sopa
de ajo (garlic soup). Reservations essential. AE, DC, MC, V. Closed Sun. and
Aug.
Casa
Vallejo
San Lorenzo 9, Madrid, Spain
Phone: 91/308-6158
EUR12 to EUR18
With
its homey dining room, friendly staff, creative menu, and reasonable prices,
Casa Vallejo is a well-kept secret of low-budget foodies. Try the tomato,
zucchini, and cheese tart or artichokes and clams to start; follow up with duck
in prune sauce or meatballs made with lamb, almonds, and pine nuts. The
fudge-and-raspberry pie alone is worth the trip. Reservations essential. MC, V.
Closed Aug. and Sun. No dinner Mon.
Champagneria
Gala
Moratin 22, Madrid, Spain
Phone: 91/429-2562
Under EUR12
Hidden
on a back street not far from Calle Atocha and the Reina Sofia museum, this
cheerful Mediterranean restaurant is usually packed thanks to its fixed-price
three-course menus with wine, which offer a choice of paellas,
fideuas
(paellas with noodles instead of rice), risottos, and hearty bean stews. Only
cava,
Catalan sparkling wine, costs extra. The front dining area is a kaleidoscope of
painted color, particularly red; the back area incorporates trees and plants in
a glassed-in patio. Reservations essential. No credit cards.
Horcher
Alfonso XII 6, Retiro, Madrid, Spain
Phone: 91/522-0731
Over EUR24
Once considered the finest in Madrid, this classic
restaurant at the edge of the Parque del Retiro is now an overpriced monument to
its former glory. Specialties include the kinds of game dishes traditionally
favored by Spanish aristocracy: wild boar, venison, roast duck. The star
appetizer is lobster salad with truffles. Dishes like Stroganoff with mustard,
pork chops with sauerkraut, and
baumkuchen (a chocolate-covered fruit and
cake dessert) reflect the restaurant's Germanic roots. (The Horcher family had a
restaurant in Berlin at the turn of the 20th century.) The intimate dining room
is decorated with rust-colored brocade and antique Austrian porcelain, and a
wide selection of French and German wines rounds out the menu. Jacket and tie
are required. Reservations essential. AE, DC, MC, V. Closed Sun. and Aug. No
lunch Sat.
Iroco
Velazquez 18, Madrid, Spain
Phone: 91/431-7381
Under EUR24
This
large, stylish establishment is popular with businesspeople at the lunch hour
and trendy folk in the evening. In summer, reservations are essential for tables
on the garden patio, where Crown Prince Felipe has been spotted. The
nueva
cocina (nouvelle cuisine) is well presented, and the set lunch menu is good
value. Classic dishes include prawn rolls, hake in green asparagus sauce, and
chocolate mousse. Reservations essential. AE, DC, MC, V.
Julian
de Tolosa
Cava Baja 18, Centro, Madrid, Spain
Phone: 91/365-8210
Under EUR12 to EUR24
This rustic yet designer-decorated spot on the corner
of Cava Baja and Almendro is famous for
alubias pintas (red kidney beans)
from the Basque town of Tolosa. The
jabugo ham and the two-person
txuletón
(28-oz. beefsteak) are excellent. Try a Basque
txakoli (tart white wine)
with your first course and a split of Ribera de Duero with the heavier end of
the meal. Reservations are advised. AE, DC, MC, V. Closed Sun.
La
Bola
C. de la Bola 5, Ópera, Madrid, Spain
Phone: 91/547-6930
Under EUR12 to EUR24
First opened as a
botelleria (wine shop) in
1802, La Bola developed slowly into a tapas bar and eventually into a
full-fledged restaurant. Tradition is the main draw; blood-red paneling outside
beckons you into the original bar and the cozy dining nooks, decorated with
polished wood, Spanish tile, and lace curtains. The restaurant still belongs to
the founding family, with the seventh generation currently in training. Dinner
is served, but the house specialty is that quintessential Madrid meal
cocido
a la madrileña, served only at lunch and accompanied by crusty bread and a
hearty red wine. No credit cards. No dinner Sun.
La
Cacharreria
Moreria 9, Madrid, Spain
Phone: 91/365-3930
Under EUR12 to EUR18
The name of this restaurant means "junkyard,"
and it's reflected in the decor -- a mix of dusty calico, old lace, and gilt
mirrors, all tucked into the medieval quarter. The cooking, however, is upscale,
with a market-based menu that changes daily and an excellent selection of wines.
Venison stew and tuna steaks with
cava (sparkling white wine from
Catalonia) and leeks have been among the specialties. Save room for the homemade
lemon tart. AE, DC, MC, V. Closed Sun.
La
Cava Real
Espronceda 34, Chamberi, Madrid, Spain
Phone: 91/442-5432
Under EUR12 to EUR24
Wine connoisseurs love the intimate atmosphere of this
small bar-restaurant, which was Madrid's first true wine bar when it opened in
1983. Still part of Spain's largest wine club (Warning: no beer!), it's also
open to the public, smartly decorated in plush reds and dark browns. There are a
staggering 350 wines on offer, including 50 by the glass. The charming and
experienced maître d', Chema Gómez, can help you choose. Chef Javier Collar
designs good-value menus around various wines, and the à la carte selection is
plentiful, mainly
nueva cocina with game in season as well as fancy
desserts and cheeses. Reservations essential. AE, DC, MC, V. Closed Sun. and
Aug.
La
Trucha
Manuel Fernandez y Gonzalez 3, Santa Ana, Madrid, Spain
Phone: 91/429-5833
EUR12 to EUR24
At either of its two locations, this Andalusian
deep-fry specialist is one of the happiest places in Madrid. The staff is
perennially jovial, and the house specialty,
trucha la truchana (crisped
trout stuffed with ample garlic and diced
jabugo ham) is a work of art
worthy of inclusion in one of the nearby museums. Other star entrées are
chopitos
(baby squid),
pollo al ajillo (chunks of chicken in crisped garlic), and
esparragos
trigueros (wild asparagus).
Jarras (pitchers) of chilled Valdepeñas,
a young Beaujolais-like claret, seem to function as laughing gas in this magic
little bistro. The Nuñez de Arce store, just down from the Hotel Reina
Victoria, is usually less crowded. Other location: Nuñez de Arce 6,
91/429-3778. AE, MC, V. Closed Sun. Nuñez de Arce branch also closed Aug.
Las
Cuevas de Luis Candelas
Cuchilleros 1, Centro, Madrid, Spain
Phone: 91/366-5428
Under EUR12 to EUR24
Hidden off the southwest corner of the Plaza Mayor,
this "cave" is said to be the oldest tavern in Madrid and feels like
the medieval cellar of a Spanish mansion. Popular with locals as well as
travelers, the tavern is divided into three sections. You're greeted by a host
dressed as the 19th-century bandit himself, and you enter through a long bar
where noisy regulars drink and munch tapas. A low stone archway leads to a
quieter area where you can sit on low benches, drink from a ceramic jar, and eat
raciones of such tapas as mushrooms in garlic and cured ham. Farther
inside the "cave" are the dining areas, with painted scenes of old
Madrid. Barbecued meats are the specialty, and portions are huge and heavy --
for a light dinner, stay in the tapas lounge. A guitar player strolls between
the ancient rooms, adding to the enchanting, if slightly touristy, atmosphere.
AE, MC, V.
Lhardy
Carrera de San Jerónimo 8, Sol, Madrid, Spain
Phone: 91/522-2207
EUR18 to Over EUR24
Serving Madrid specialties in the same central location
for more than 150 years, Lhardy looks pretty much the same as it must have on
day one, with its dark-wood paneling, brass chandeliers, and red-velvet chairs.
The menu offers international fare, but most diners come for the traditional
cocido a la madrileña and callos a la madrileña. Game, sea bass in champagne
sauce, and dessert soufflés are also finely prepared. The dining rooms are
upstairs; the ground-floor entry doubles as a delicatessen and stand-up coffee
bar that fills on chilly winter mornings with shivering souls sipping
steaming-hot
caldo (chicken broth) from silver urns. AE, DC, MC, V.
Closed Aug. No dinner Sun.
Pedro
Larumbe
Paseo de la Castellana 34/C. Serrano 61, Madrid, Spain
Phone: 91/575-1112
EUR12 to Over EUR24
This excellent restaurant is literally the pinnacle of
the ABC shopping center between Paseo de la Castellana and Calle Serrano. Dining
quarters include a lovely summer roof terrace, which is glassed in for the
winter, and an Andalusian patio. Chef-owner Pedro Larumbe is known for his
presentations of such contemporary dishes as
cazuela de cocochas con patatas
al pil-pil (a casserole of tender cheeks of hake, cooked in their own juices
combined with oil and garlic, and served with potatoes). There's a salad bar at
lunchtime, and the dessert buffet is an art exhibit. Good wine list. AE, DC, MC,
V. Closed Sun., 1 wk at Easter, and 2 wks in Aug. No lunch Sat.
Taberna
Carmencita
Libertad 16, Centro, Madrid, Spain
Phone: 91/531-6612
Under EUR12 to EUR18
A classic little spot just two minutes' north of the
Gran Via-Calle Alcala intersection is an old Madrid favorite for lunches and
light dinners. Now part of priest-restaurateur Patxo de Lezama's sprawling
gastronomic empire (which extends to Washington, DC), this ceramic-tile tavern
has managed to retain much of the atmosphere it had in the mid-20th century,
when Carmencita herself cared for customers as though they were long-lost
children. The
chipirones en su tinta (squid in its ink) and
sopa de
pescado (fish soup) are reliably tasty. AE, DC, MC, V. Closed Sun. No lunch
Sat.
Ciao
Argensola 7, Madrid, Spain
Phone: 91/308-2519
Under EUR12
Italian
Always
noisy and packed with happy diners, Ciao is Madrid's best Italian restaurant.
Homemade pastas, like tagliatelle with wild mushrooms and
panzarotti
stuffed with spinach and ricotta, are popular as inexpensive main courses; but
the kitchen also turns out credible versions of osso buco and veal scallopini,
accompanied by a good selection of Italian wines. The decor - mirrored walls and
sleek black furniture - convincingly evokes a fashionable setting. A second
location (Apodaca 20, PHONE: 91/447-0036), run by the owner's sons and daughter,
also serves pizza. Reservations essential. AE, DC, MC, V. Closed Sept., Sun., No
lunch Sat.
Nabucco
Hortaleza 108, Chueca, Madrid, Spain
Phone: 91/310-0611
Under EUR12
With pastel-washed walls and subtle lighting from gigantic, wrought-iron
candelabras, this pizzeria and trattoria is a trendy but elegant haven in gritty
Chueca. Fresh bread sticks and garlic olive oil show up within minutes of your
arrival. The spinach, ricotta, and walnut ravioli is heavenly, and this may be
the only Italian restaurant in Madrid where you can order barbecue-chicken
pizza, although the four-cheese one is good as well. Considering the ambience
and quality, the bill is a pleasant surprise. AE, MC, V.
El
Borbollon
Recoletos 7, Madrid, Spain
Phone: 91/431-4134
EUR12 to EUR24
For
nearly two decades the friendly Castro family has run this elegant yet
comfortable restaurant and bar between Paseo de Recoletos and Calle Serrano.
Chef Eduardo prepares French-Basque cuisine, with specialties including various
crepes,
carré (a prime cutlet or chop) of lamb, fresh sea bass, turbot,
and hake, plus rich game dishes in season. Alfonso Castro, the knowledgeable
sommelier, offers good wines and brandies. Dinner reservations are wise; at
lunchtime, there's food at the bar. AE, DC, MC, V. Closed Sun. and Aug.
Contemporary
El
Cenador del Prado
C. del Prado 4, Madrid, Spain
Phone: 91/429-1561
EUR12 to EUR24
The
name means "The Prado Dining Room," and the settings are a Baroque
salon and a plant-filled conservatory. The Cenador's innovative menu has French
and Asian touches, as well as exotic Spanish dishes that rarely appear in
restaurants. The house specialty is
patatas a la importancia (sliced
potatoes fried in a sauce of garlic, parsley, and clams); other possibilities
include shellfish consomme with ginger ravioli, veal and eggplant in bechamel,
and venison with prunes. For dessert, try the
bartolillos (custard-filled
pastries). AE, DC, MC, V. Closed Sun. and 1 wk in Aug. No lunch Sat.
La
Broche
Miguel Angel 29, Chamberi, Madrid, Spain
Phone: 91/399-3778
Over EUR24
Sergi Arola, who trained with celebrity chef Ferran
Adria, has added his own twists and innovations to those of the Catalan master
and vaulted directly to the top of Madrid's dining charts. The minimalist dining
room, all clean white surfaces and soft yet abundant light, clears the decks for
maximum taste-bud pleasure. Opt for the
menu de degustacion and let
Sergi and his staff run you through the gastronomic spectrum. The wine list is
superb; try a peppery Priorat (a Miserere, for example) with your beef or
venison. The restaurant's name comes from the expression
broche de oro
(literally "brooch of gold"), meaning the finishing touch of
perfection. Reservations essential. AE, DC, MC, V. Closed Sun. and 1 wk at
Easter. No lunch Sat.
La
Terraza – Casino de Madrid
Alcala 15, Sol, Madrid, Spain
Phone: 91/521-8700
Over EUR24
This rooftop terrace just off Puerta del Sol offers a
glimpse of the deluxe interior of one of Madrid's oldest, most exclusive clubs
(the
casino was a club for gentlemen, not gamblers). The culinary
inventions are inspired and overseen by Ferran Adria, one of the hottest chefs
in Europe. Adria is not present -- he runs his own famous restaurant, El Bulli,
near Roses in Catalonia -- but his ideas are. Francisco Roncero's creations
closely follow Adria's trademarks: the lightest and tastiest of mousses and
foams, ravioli in rare flavors that explode in the mouth,
crustaceos en
suquet con alcachofas y patatas (crustaceans in their juices with artichokes
and potatoes). For the full gamut of epicurean titillation, splurge on the
11-plate tasting menu. On warm evenings the terrace is stunning. Reservations
essential. AE, DC, MC, V. Closed Sun. and Aug. No lunch Sat.
Viridiana
Juan de Mena 14, Retiro, Madrid, Spain
Phone: 91/531-5222
EUR18 to Over EUR24
Viridiana has a relaxed, somewhat cramped bistro
atmosphere, its black-and-white decor punctuated by prints from Luis Bunuel's
classic anticlerical film (for which the place is named). Iconoclast chef
Abraham Garcia says "market-based" is too narrow a description for his
creative menu, which changes every two weeks depending on what's in season. You
might find red onions stuffed with
morcilla (black pudding); soft flour
tortillas wrapped around marinated fresh tuna; or filet mignon in white truffle
sauce. If it's available, try the superb duck pate drizzled with sherry and
served with Sauternes or Tokay wine. The tangy grapefruit sherbet is a marvel.
Reservations essential. AE, DC, MC, V. Closed Sun. and Holy Week.
Zalacain
Alvarez de Baena 4, Chamartin, Madrid, Spain
Phone: 91/561-4840
Over EUR24
A deep-apricot color scheme, set off by dark wood and
gleaming silver, makes this restaurant look like an exclusive villa. Zalacain
introduced nouvelle cuisine to Spain in the 1970s and is now something of a
classic. Splurge on dishes like prawn salad in avocado vinaigrette, lobster
salad in an emulsion of virgin olive oil and sherry vinegar, and roast pheasant
with truffles; or sample the chef's own choices with a tasting menu. Service is
somewhat stuffy, and jackets are required. Reservations essential. AE, DC, V.
Closed Sun., Aug., and 1 wk at Easter. No lunch Sat.
El
Pescador
Jose Ortega y Gasset 75, Madrid, Spain
Phone: 91/402-1290
Under EUR24
Locals
swear that seafood served in Madrid is fresher than in the coastal towns where
it is caught. That's probably an exaggeration, but El Pescador, one of Madrid's
most respected seafood restaurants, makes it seem plausible. Stop for a drink at
the bar and savor the aromas wafting from the kitchen, where skilled chefs
dressed in fishermen's smocks prepare shellfish just behind the counter. Among
the tapas, the
salpicon de mariscos (mussels, lobster, shrimp, and
onions in vinaigrette) is incredible. The best dish on the dinner menu is
lenguado
Evaristo (grilled sole), named for the restaurant's owner. When it's busy,
the place can be cheerful and noisy, with dockside-rustic decor: lobster-pot
lamps, red-and-white-check tablecloths, and rough-hewn posts and beams.
Unfortunately, the waiters can be disagreeably surly. MC, V. Closed Sun. and
Aug.
La
Trainera
Lagasca 60, Salamanca, Madrid, Spain
Phone: 91/576-8035
Under EUR12 to Over EUR24
With its nautical decor and maze of little dining
rooms, this informal restaurant is all about fresh seafood -- the best money can
buy. Crab, lobster, shrimp, mussels, and a dozen other types of shellfish are
served by weight in
raciones (large portions). Although many Spanish
diners share several plates of these shellfish as their entire meal, the grilled
hake, sole, or turbot makes an unbeatable second course. To accompany the
legendary
carabineros (giant scarlet shrimp), skip the listless house
wine and go for a bottle of Albarino, from the southern Galician coast. AE, MC,
V. Closed Sun. and Aug.
Japanese
Ginza
Sushi Bar
Plaza de las Cortes 3, Madrid, Spain
Phone: 91/429-7619
Under EUR24
Madrid's
first Japanese sushi bar is conveniently set opposite American Express and the
Palace Hotel, near the Thyssen and Prado museums. The conveyor belt does a brisk
business, with plates priced between 300 and 900 ptas., and there's a sit-down
restaurant upstairs. The staff is cheerful, and Spain's fresh fish is perfect.
You can reserve seats at the bar. AE, DC, MC, V. Closed Mon.
